He Knew Our Name Before We Said a Word
The plane was small. The runway was smaller. And the moment we stepped off onto the tarmac in Raiatea, French Polynesia, a man walked straight toward us with a smile that said he’d been waiting. “Are you the Savage family?”
We looked at him. We looked at each other. We looked around.
We were the only tourists on the flight. Four of us, clearly not from here, with camera gear slung over our shoulders and the unmistakable energy of people who have arrived somewhere very far from home. The locals moved easily through the small airport, backpacks light, dressed for the warmth of an island life they lived every day. We were not subtle.
We laughed. He laughed. And just like that, our adventure in Raiatea began.
Things to Do in Raiatea: The Best Raiatea Excursions For Adventure Seekers
Are you traveling to Raiatea and looking for the best Raiatea excursions to explore during your stay?
We had three days in Raiatea and spent two of them out on the water with Vanbass Tours. I can tell you that these two days completely changed the way that we will forever travel, which is why this is an in-depth article showcasing Vanbass tours and why these two tours are perfect for adventure seekers.
Now, before we dig in, I need to introduce you to our guide, Tera.
After Tera met us at the airport, he turned around and grabbed his ukulele, proudly playing and singing for us as he walked us down a wooden walkway. From the tarmac to the doc had been about a 2-minute walk, his voice carrying the kind of warmth that makes you feel immediately welcome in a place you’ve never been. I didn’t even know luxury like that existed. Five minutes off our flight and we were already on the water.
That was our introduction to Van Bass Tours. And over the next two days, they would show us some of the most extraordinary things to do in Raiatea and its sister island Taha’a — and completely change how our family thinks about travel.
1. Why Van Bass Tours is the Best Way to Experience Raiatea
If you’re looking for an authentic Tahitian cultural experience that meets at the intersection of culture and environment, this is it. Vanbass is a newer company, only opened in 2025, and it’s evident that they are leaders in this industry through the care that they demonstrate for Mother Nature, Mother Ocean, and the people in their community.
Before I take you through our days on the water, you need to understand who our guides were. Because a tour is only as good as the person leading it, and our guide, Tera, and Captain Tuarii were very special hosts.
Let’s start off with Tera. He is one of the most accomplished ukulele players in Tahiti, having won competitions and collected awards that reflect a lifetime of devotion to his instrument. He doesn’t just play ukulele. He makes them. By hand. With his kids.
Every time we boarded the boat, Tera picked up his ukulele and played. He’d tell stories between songs — about the competitions he’s entered, about the process of building an instrument with his children, about what it means to carry this music. And through those songs and stories, we started to understand something important: this wasn’t a tour. This was Tera sharing Tahiti with us, in the most genuine way he knew how.
And Captain Tuarii, well, it was a bit harder to get to know him as I’m not fluent in French or Tahitian, and he’s not fluent in English, but we still had a lot of fun, and he was fantastic with the kids. From spotting wildlife to swimming down the coral garden with us, he was hands-on and passionate about introducing us to his country and ensuring we had an immersive experience.
Both wore their mission on their sleeves: to preserve, protect, and share Tahitian culture. Tourism is their is the vehicle. Connection is the point.
Knowing that changed everything about how we experienced the next two days.
Day One: Introduction to Raiatea
As I mentioned, we had signed up for our tour to start as soon as we landed at the Uturoa airport, a fantastic way to orient ourselves to the island. With our two guides, we were off on the water, being lulled by the ukulele sounds as they bounced off the waves.
2. The Faaroa River — The Only Navigable River in Raiatea
Our first stop on our boat tour was the Faaroa River, the widest, largest, and only navigable by boat river. As we moved through the water, palm trees arched overhead, and vines hung down toward the surface. The light filtered through in broken pieces as the sun and the rain competed for attention. It felt like what I’d always imagined the Amazon would look like — except quieter and more intimate.
As we slowly maneuvered our way down the river, we spotted some small shacks that had mangos and breadfruit out on a table. Available for purchase from the locals, all by the honor system for tourists passing by. In fact, we learned that some Tahitians still live off the river, opting for an off-grid lifestyle and choosing not to engage in traditional work or schooling, and just live off the land.
3. Le Jardin Botanique De Faaroa — Community Educational Garden
At the end of the river to Le Jardin Botanique De Faaroa, a 5-acre protected garden in the Taputapuatea community. This free garden is full of local plants, fruits, and beautiful trees. Maintained by a local agricultural school, the gardens serve as an educational facility and a food provider for the local community.
We loved walking through the garden, learning about the cultural significance of the plants, how they are used today, and about the community connection the land has offered. It was also our first time ever seeing how bananas are grown! We stopped several times for photos, as the gardens and walkways are beautiful and set against a mountainside backdrop that made for the perfect family photos.
4. Taputapuatea Marae — The Cultural Heart of All of Polynesia
Marae Taputapuatea is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the cultural heart of French Polynesia. No list of things to do in Raiatea is complete without this stop, and visiting it with Tera made it feel entirely different from anything we could have experienced on our own.
Raiatea, he explained, is considered the spiritual and cultural heart of all of French Polynesia. Think of it like the head of an octopus, with tentacles reaching outward across the islands — all the way to Hawaii, all the way to the shores of what eventually became the United States. All of Polynesian history and culture flows from this site.
Standing on that land, you felt it.
We walked through what remains of the ancient sites. The lava-rock foundations where the king and queen once lived. The places where offerings (and sacrifices) were made to the gods. The areas where ceremonies were held for centuries. Crabs moved between the roots of old trees. The air was warm and heavy with history.
Tera spoke about all of it with the quiet intensity of someone who isn’t reciting facts from a pamphlet. He was a messenger proudly sharing his culture, one powerful story at a time.
5. Snorkeling a Sunken Ship — A Scavenger Hunt in the Sea
To round out our first day, we made our way to a small private motu (island) and tied off the boat.
Once we were settled in, Captain Tuarii pointed out a sunken ship only 20 meters out. We quickly swapped out our sunglasses for snorkels and were off to explore.
We quickly made our way to the underwater ship, watching the fish that had made the wreck their home. Creatures moved in and out of shadows. Colors appeared and reflected light back to our awaiting eyes. This was the kind of snorkeling that keeps you searching for treasures longer than you expect.
When we surfaced and moved to the shallower water nearby, the whole thing turned into a scavenger hunt. Large troca shells, still alive, still occupied. Creatures are doing their absolute best to camouflage into the ocean floor. Our kids were hooked. We were all hooked, taking turns spotting things that were trying very hard not to be discovered.
6. Learning to Open a Coconut on a White Sand Beach
We finished the afternoon on the beach of the motu, where our boat captain Tuarii, took my son for a walk on the beach and taught him how to pick and crack open a coconut. He taught my son the difference between a water coconut and a food coconut, how to tell which is which, and how to get to what’s inside each one.
White sand. Palm trees. A boy was learning to feed himself from a coconut while the ocean sparkled behind him. It was exactly as picture-perfect as you’d imagine. Except better, because it was real and it was ours.
Day Two: Exploring the Island of Taha’a
Taha’a is Raiatea’s smaller sister island, and our second day with Van Bass Tours was built around exploring her. Travel tip: Do not plan a trip without allotting time to visit Taha’a. This island is stunningly beautiful, and the experiences are the epitome of bucket list memories, so plan a boat tour in Tahaa’s and explore these waters; it is absolutely worth it.
7. The Octopus Hole
We started at a cultural site known as the Octopus Hole, where Tera shared the historical significance of the giant hole in the middle of the lagoon. After hearing the story, we were excited to snorkel in this geological anomaly and jumped into the teal blue waters and explored the ocean floor.
8. Swimming with Sharks and Stingrays in Taha’a
I’m not sure anything in all of our travels has matched what happened next. Our captain slowed the boat as we moved into shallower water, then said simply, “Look behind.”
We turned. There were no fewer than twenty black-tipped reef sharks following us through the water. Just following. Calmly. Purposefully. Excited for our arrival.
The moment we stopped, my daughter had her snorkel on and was over the side of the boat.
These are reef sharks, and they are completely accustomed to visitors. They approach with what I can only describe as the energy of a room full of golden retrievers who’ve spotted a newcomer at a party. They came at us from every direction — below, above, beside, all around. And woven in between them, stingrays.
There we were. Our family. Swimming with sharks and stingrays in the waters of French Polynesia. “Is this our life?” I said to my husband, as we quickly nodded to each other before putting our snorkels back in our mouths so we could look down at what was happening below us.
It was overwhelming. It was incredible. It was the kind of moment you look at your kids and know that they will carry this experience forever.
9. The Coral Garden That Made Me Feel Like I Was Inside a Movie
After the sharks, we made our way to a coral garden with a strong current running through it.
The sky chose this exact moment to open up. Rain poured down heavily and warmly, and we burst out laughing because it didn’t matter at all. The water below was warmer than the air around us. We jumped in and started swimming to shore. We ran along the sandy beach, making our way to the tip of the island, where we could hop in and let the current carry us back to the boat.
Navigating the current meant we had to use our strong swimming skills and borrowed fins to navigate the coral channel safely. (We didn’t want to bump up and break any coral).
Floating quickly with the current, an underwater ecosystem felt like a scene right out of Finding Nemo. Green fish. Purple corals. An abundance of yellow. The colors were so vivid and concentrated that it looked like art, not real life. Fish moved in clouds around us, curious and completely unbothered. They’re used to people here, and they came close enough that it felt like they were coming up to shake our hands and welcome us into their home.
Swimming through that reef, I recognized everything from the famous movie— the anemones that Nemo lived in, the clownfish, the coral. Whether or not the filmmakers ever visited this exact location, well, I doubt it since the movie was set in Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, but I could tell you, Nemo and his family would happily call Taha’a home!
10. The Lunch That Changed How We Travel
Our final stop was a private motu where we gathered with other tour groups under an open-air shelter with a thatched roof and one very long table.
Local chefs had prepared a full spread of traditional Tahitian food. Poisson cru — fresh tuna in coconut milk. Umara – Sweet potato, white rice, vegetables. A bright, cold lime drink, I went back for again and again.
But as amazing as the food was, it was the conversation that forever changed the way we as a family will travel.
We sat across from Tera, and someone mentioned it was actually election day in French Polynesia. Tera saw our interest and opened up to a long-table conversation about Tahitian culture and values. We talked about democracy. About the political process. About what the people of French Polynesia value and how they protect it. And from there, the conversation expanded into something much larger — community, family, what it means to preserve your culture.
I have never heard my family talk about politics like that before. Not with that kind of genuine curiosity. Because we weren’t really talking about politics. We were learning about people.
At some point, I mentioned that I don’t have any siblings. Tera was quiet for a moment. Then he said, “Well, you always have a brother in me.” I don’t think he knows how much that landed.
There’s a version of travel that’s about seeing things. A version that’s about ticking off boxes and having new experiences for the first time. Then there’s the type of travel that is truly transformational. That leaves you different, because you visited this place and met these people. That lunch was the second kind. Our kids felt it. My husband felt it. I felt it.
The more you learn about other people, the more you learn about yourself. I believe that more now than I did before that meal.
11. The View Over Bora Bora
After lunch, we walked to the edge of the motu, where the sand was white, and the water was still, and we looked out across the channel.
There, on the horizon, was Bora Bora.
We stood there for the last hour of our tour, watching the island we were heading to the next morning. We lay on the sand and snapped family photos. We each took a quiet moment to soak in the magic of the scenery around us. The day wrapped itself up in the way only perfect days know how.
Van Bass Tours had given us two days that didn’t feel like tours. They felt like an invitation to experience Tahiti in a way that exceeded every expectation. We are forever grateful to Tera and Tuarii for their kindness, their passion, and for sharing their love with us for these two days.
Planning Your Visit: What to Know Before You Go
Best suited for:
Families, couples, and anyone who wants more than a sightseeing checklist. These tours are immersive, personal, and deeply cultural.
Getting there:
Raiatea has its own airport with inter-island connections from Papeete on Tahiti, and having a tour booked as soon as we touched down was one of the coolest experiences ever. Highly recommend!
What to bring:
Reef-safe sunscreen, sunglasses, sandals, camera(s), a dry bag for valuables, a change of clothes, and an appetite for local food. Snorkel gear is provided, but you’re free to bring your own if you prefer.
Best time to visit Raiatea:
Anytime is a good time to visit Raiatea, but book a trip depending on what you want to see and when your schedule allows. If you’re interested in seeing whales, then visiting between July and November is best. Whales are typically found around Tahiti and Moorea.
Where we stayed:
We stayed at the beautiful, innovative, and unique Apatoa Resort on the south side of Raiatea. It was one of the most amazing luxury glamping experiences of our lives, and we dedicated a whole feature article to it: Apatoa Raiatea — What To Expect at Tahiti’s Newest Luxury Glamping Resort
How to book:
Typical to Tahiti, this new business doesn’t have a web presence or social media following. If you’re interested in booking, use WhatsApp and call or text +689-87-07-57-57
Why Raiatea Deserves a Spot on Your French Polynesia Itinerary
Most visitors to French Polynesia come for the well-known destinations like Moorea or Bora Bora. And Bora Bora IS extraordinary. But when you’re researching things to do in Raiatea, what you’ll find is something Bora Bora can’t offer — the place where Polynesian culture actually began, and is deeply immersed in every experience.
Raiatea exceeded every expectation we had, and we will be recommending it again and again.
The river that feels like another world. The garden was built by the school. The cultural center where Tahitian civilization was born. The sharks that follow your boat like they’ve been expecting you. The coral that looks like someone designed it with every color in existence. And the table where a man from the other side of the world tells you that you are family.
That’s what Van Bass Tours gives you. Not a highlight reel. An immersive experience that helps you, as a traveller evolve.
Don’t skip Raiatea on your trip to French Polynesia. You need to meet Tera and his ukulele. Don’t skip the moment when the music starts and you realize you’re somewhere that’s been waiting to show you something you didn’t know you needed to see.
Ready to experience the best things to do in Raiatea for yourself? Book your Van Bass Tours adventure. Tell them the Savages sent you.
